Stokes Wave-Current Physics

MarineSentry Pro

Predictive harbor bar safety modeling. Computes compressed wavelengths and breaking limits ($S = H_s/L \ge 0.14$) driven by opposing tidal ebb outflows.

Preset Chokepoints

Active Monitoring Station

Columbia River Bar

46.246° N, 124.088° W

PRO

Current Crossing Risk

12% of breaking limit

Clear / Safe

Simulated Tide / Current

Ebb: 2.1 m/s (opposing)

Ebb cycle active

Significant Wave Height

1.56 m @ 7.3s

from WNW (298°)

Dynamic Physics Calculation

Incoming waves compress when meeting an opposing current (ebb tide). The shortened wavelength increases wave steepness $S = H_s/L$. If steepness reaches the Stokes physics limit ($S = 0.14$), the waves break violently.

Deep wavelength ($L_0$): —

Opposing Current ($U$): —

Compressed Wavelength ($L$): —

Calculated Steepness ($S$): —

7-Day Safety Forecast

Hover/Touch the chart to inspect hourly parameters.

Safe Caution High Risk Dangerous

Chart Area Fill Steepness Risk Index

Solid Gold Line Wave Height (m)

Sinusoidal Waves Tidal Currents (Ebb/Flood)

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Location Profile